Hey My Honeys!!
Welcome to the “HIVEblog“, a safe space to ask questions, share experiences, and learn ALL we can about Locs!
Today we are going to talk about #MOISTURE!!
At times we tend to generalize hair maintenance in the loc community. However, if there is anything you take from this site I want it to be this "What works for some wont work for all". That is even more accurate when speaking about moisture. Also, the conversation about "dry hair" isn't regulated to locs, SO if you need a point in the right direction, I got you!
If you have ever had a consultation with me, or if I have ever done maintenance on your locs, you have heard me talk your EAR off about moisture. Why?! Because moisture is KEY to long healthy locs. Say it with me, "If it's dry, it WILL break!". Now, if it does I can definitely help you repair it. But let's not get that far, lol. In this post we are going to go over what I discuss with EACH client in terms of HOW to moisturize your locs and WHY you should solidify a routine that works for you.
First, we ask a major question...
What is hair?
Simple, right? Hair is the stuff that grows out of your skin that you cut, color, curl, and crimp.
😂 I mean, yes, but let's be a bit more specific. Hair is defined as a filament primarily composed of alpha-keratin protein that grows from the follicles of the dermis. Along with being a feature characteristic of mammals the hair on your head acts as a heat protector for the brain, as well as protects your skin from outer factors, and acts as sense organs. Because humans tend to style their hair to express themselves visually, natural hair options such as Locs open an even wider variety of hair expression.
Why is this important to know?!
It is important to understand WHAT hair is in order to understand how to best maintain it. Without maintaining the balance of protein and moisture your hair will become susceptible to breakage. Breakage, in terms of locs, can lead to thinning as well as loss of locs.
When looking to figure out your hair type you should look at the shape of the hair follicle. For example: round shaped follicles will be straight and flat oval follicles will be coiled/kinky. The key to healthy hair for ALL hair types is having great products and a healthy maintenance routine.
*Contrary to popular belief, kinky hair does not mean you automatically have low porosity and wavy/curly hair does not denote high porosity hair.
Type 1: This hair texture is straight and falls closest to the head. It can range from silky and fine to coarse and thick, and can also be prone to excess oil buildup.
Type 2: This hair texture is wavy with a defined S-pattern. This hair tends to lay closer to the head and can range from fine to coarse.
Type 3: This hair texture is curly with a curl pattern that can either be loose or tightly compact. This hair tends to grow away from the head and are also prone to frizz.
Type 4: This hair texture is extra coily with a Z-pattern that is commonly referred to as kinky. This hair grows away from the head. It is the most delicate and prone to both frizz and shrinkage. It can range from soft and fine to coarse and wiry.
*ALL hair types can loc. You just have to be patient and maintain a good cleaning/moisture routine.
When we speak about moisture, in terms of hair, we are speaking of #WATER!! Oils, butters, greases, and moisturizers are considered sealants, which means they help keep your moisture in. However, your hair's ability to RETAIN moisture is determined by its porosity. Knowing your porosity will help you when you are creating your moisture routine. Please refer to the hair porosity test below to help you determine yours.
*Keep in mind, hydrated skin is very important in hair growth and retention. Don't avoid drinking water. It's just as important as that rose water in you routine.
How do i detect dry locs?
Typically, dry locs feel brittle to the touch and often look dull. That dryness can lead to breakage which can't necessarily be fixed in every case. Unfortunately, some of our most trusted products can actually be the thing drying you out.
Here is a list of ingredients to absolutely avoid:
Alcohol: Isopropyl alcohol will not only dry out your hair, and your skin, it will dry out other human tissues as well. Alcohol is used in hair products to ensure that it evenly spreads across your hair. Even though it makes your hair dry faster it also dries out the water and essential oils from your scalp and hair follicles.
Beeswax: Beeswax is a hydrocarbon which means it has a high melting point. The only option to remove it from your locs is extremely hot water and patience. On top of being difficult to remove, beeswax attracts dirt and debris. It is not needed in any loc routine.
Mineral oil/Petrolatum/Petroleum/Paraffin Even though these will seal any moisture you already have in your locs. If your hair is already dry these ‘occlusive’ agents, will prevent your strands from absorbing any moisture.
If any of these ingredients are first on the label list that indicates there are higher concentrations. That also means there is higher risk of buildup, breakage, and dry locs. If you are using products that have these ingredients and aren't seeing good results this is why. I strongly suggest that every person has a NATURAL oil routine that they curate for themselves.
Now that we have covered what hair is, how to determine your hair type and porosity, and how to detect dryness, we will now go over what to do with that information. Now that you are locing or continuing your loc journey it's important to know exactly what works for YOU in terms of a routine. Having a healthy loc routine will help you maintain your beautiful crown.
Some loose naturals rely on the LOC (liquid, oil, and cream) method for sealing in moisture, it is a very effective way for treating hair regardless of curl pattern, density, and whether or not the hair is chemically-processed (including hair coloring). Normally, loc'd individuals refrain from using cream based leave-ins because they don't always penetrate the loc the way we need it to and they require a frequent wash routine that might be too drying for locs. So for this reason I advise my clients to replace the Cream with a "Sealant" Oil. Keep in mind, hair textures that are straight or loosely curled (types 1&2), can appear limp and greasy, as well as have an abundance of product build up. If you have hair in these categories you will need to simply adjust to lighter weight oils. However, the LOS (liquid, Oil, Sealant Oil) method is for everyone in the loc community. We know that water is the moisture but the oils help seal it in and aide in better retention.
In order to begin with the LOS method, you will need just a few items: 1 water spray bottle, 1 oil application bottle, and a durag and/or bonnet. The process is very easy and most of the time you already have most of the products in your home. Now, let's break down the steps a little bit:
Step 1: Liquid (WATER in water bottle)
The first, and most important step is to re-wet your hair. Water is the moisture that we are seeking and should be applied to the whole head, from root to tips. Sometimes I make what I call "wet water". Wet Water is made by adding an additional hydration property to it such as aloe vera juice, rose water, or rice water. Use 25% hydration property to 75% water in your spray bottle and dump any unused wet water after a week. Each have their own positive properties and I encourage you to try them until you find the product that provides the results you're looking for.
Aloe Vera Juice: Because aloe has a high concentration of water it is a great way to moisturise your hair. It also contains vitamins A, C, and E which can help strengthen and repair hair strands. It also can soothe an itchy scalp, increases blood circulation which promotes hair growth, and can also be used to remove oil buildup and residue from the hair follicles.
Rose Water: One of the most notable benefits of rose water, aside for it containing vitamins A, C, E, B and it's anti-inflammatory qualities, is the fact that is PH level is similar to human hair. Normally, water contains minerals such as calcium that can make hair brittle and distilling rose water can actually help soften hair. Because it is a mild astringent it can also help reduce dandruff and oiliness, its anti-inflammatory properties can help with psoriasis and eczema, and it can reduce frizz while adding shine.
Rice Water: It is the starchy water that's left after soaking rice and it's know to have a lot of the same minerals found in rice. That includes vitamins B & E, antioxidants, and amino acids. It was used all over China and Japan dating back to 794 CE to help grow long healthy hair and is still used to this day. It is also know to help increase shine and smooth the hair.
Step 2: Oil (mixed together in oil applicator bottle)
This step is intended to not only lock in the moisture you just laid down but to add nutrients to the locs. You should make sure to apply a thin layer of oil to the hair in sections and go from the scalp to the tips of the locs. Remember to not over saturate the hair with oil to avoid weighing it down and having a greasy look.
As a rule of thumb I suggest you get 3-5 oils together that best fit your needs. For example: lemon oil for dandruff or frankincense for hair loss. One oil that should be a standard in your oil mix is an antibacterial (ex: tea tree, eucalyptus, jojoba oil) to help prevent mold and mildew from accumulating on the scalp. The other 2-4 oils should be carefully selected for your own personal needs. Keep in mind that you can select oils for both current and future issues such as dryness, breakage, thinning, and even color.
Step 3: Sealant Oil
The last step in your oil process is what we will call a "sealant" oil. It is a thicker oil that is used to seal in the water and oils you have layered on. A small amount is needed and you should apply it from the scalp to the tips, which is the oldest part for your locs. Some examples are olive oil, jamaican black castor oil, and shea oil.
Now that your hair is thoroughly moisturized it should last you 3-4 days and this process should be repeated once to twice a week. If you feel the need to add moisture during the week feel free to use your "wet water" to revitalize your tresses.
Depending on your hair’s porosity, texture, and a number of other factors, you may need to modify the LOS method for better results. To help you minimize your trial and error, it is best to research the oils before purchasing to help you make the LOS method your own. To prevent severe oil buildup your hair washing sessions should not exceed two weeks. However, a full retwist should not be done more than once a month and shouldn't exceed two months.
Each wash should be followed by oils and a routine of you seperating your hair at the scalp to prevent combined growing. Time is the best judgement of effectiveness and it is advised that you should try any new product and/or routine for at least three sessions. At the conclusion of your routine follow up with a durag (starter coils 1-6 months) or bonnet (budded to mature locs) and be great!
This process should be a simple quick part of your week. The creation of the process will take some time but the pay off will be well worth it. YOU GOT THIS!!!
*If you need help finding some products that work for you and are naturally made for locs please check out The Brand Lovely and Diamonds Beauty and Barber Supply (Hampton Roads only) let them know I sent you!!*
-Bee
Thank you for this post but I think my hair is at the point of no return reattachment’s would be way to expensive so I’m chopping it all off wish I met you before this decision my locks are to my waste or may I say what’s left of them I wear hats now but I will pass this on to others
Love this post! Thanks for sharing.💙